LAP3 Uncle Chip review

[mldavis2]

OK, agreed. But if the sensor data that the ECU is recording is what is changed, how is that recording going to show anything outside of normal parameters?

I don't know. It depends on what is recorded. I'm a GM guy so I'm out of my ballpark on this one. Just passing along what I know about GM stuff. I'm guessing that some sensor somewhere would be showing an abnormal value. There is a torque reading on the dash, and I don't know where that comes from, but a higher than normal reading there would mean that some sensor(s) are reading high levels to show a torque increase, or it might just be calculated from RPM, throttle position, etc. Don't know..... wish I had a manual.

 

[MurlinatoR]

Maybe it's different on the Veloster platform, but the Optima never gets near 26psi. I have read the Stinger is even lower. On my Optima, it made 16.5psi stock and 20.9psi on the 91 octane setting. +4.4psi.

I believe that, from what I've read, the 3.3L is only pushing 8-9 psi! That's crazy to me! LOL

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[DBurd]

Thank you!

 

[StingerT303]

Looking forward to more information on this, and user reviews.

 

[TJH]

I don't know. It depends on what is recorded. I'm a GM guy so I'm out of my ballpark on this one. Just passing along what I know about GM stuff. I'm guessing that some sensor somewhere would be showing an abnormal value. There is a torque reading on the dash, and I don't know where that comes from, but a higher than normal reading there would mean that some sensor(s) are reading high levels to show a torque increase, or it might just be calculated from RPM, throttle position, etc. Don't know..... wish I had a manual.

Yes, I understand that you are referring to the ECU taking a snapshot of 'suspicious' readings from sensors that are not targeted by old Uncle Chip for scamming!

 

[TJH]

This ASSUMES that the boost signals are being manipulated in low throttle setting areas. That is generally not the case. I can't comment exactly to LAP3's map, but the bulk of the performance increase is at higher throttle settings, where boost is already supposed to be high and will already have that ignition and mapping for peak boost levels. Fueling is further adjusted based on wideband O2 feedback and timing is curtailed by knock sensing.

Sounds like a "tuner" trying to scare people buying an alternative device. Again, he's talking about changing boost dramatically a low throttle it sounds like. These boxes change boost where the boost is already near peak, and turn it up a bit more.

Again, assumes you can make boost in those low throttle position areas and assumes the box is trying to add boost there.


Maybe it's different on the Veloster platform, but the Optima never gets near 26psi. I have read the Stinger is even lower. On my Optima, it made 16.5psi stock and 20.9psi on the 91 octane setting. +4.4psi.


Sounds like a lot of scare tactics to me. I've had the LAP3 on my Optima for 20k miles without issue. Had one on my girlfriends Sonata 2.0T for 40k without issues. YMMV.

Would it be reasonable to say that a tune would be pretty safe if it satisfied these 2 criteria:
-- that the increase in torque and boost does not impose mechanical stress beyond what the car components can handle,
and
-- the AIR-FUEL-RATIO (AFR) always remains below the level that predisposes to detonation in the cylinders?

Keith, you posted elsewhere some really neat dyno graphs of your Kia Optima with and without the Lap3 Uncle Chip. Did you measure AFR as well? If so, could you describe to us or show us your results? Also, do safe AFRs on dynos translate into safe AFRs in real world driving, with its constant changes in throttle levels and gears?

I also seem to recall your mentioning that you made some changes to the default 93 octane setting on the chip from 666 because of a minor issue. What do you think was the cause of the issue and how was the setting change able to resolve it?

Many thanks!

 

[WS6_Keith]

I don't know. It depends on what is recorded. I'm a GM guy so I'm out of my ballpark on this one. Just passing along what I know about GM stuff. I'm guessing that some sensor somewhere would be showing an abnormal value. There is a torque reading on the dash, and I don't know where that comes from, but a higher than normal reading there would mean that some sensor(s) are reading high levels to show a torque increase, or it might just be calculated from RPM, throttle position, etc. Don't know..... wish I had a manual.

If a sensor somewhere were reporting an abnormal value, then these boxes wouldn't be working in any of the cars. I've had this in my Optima for 2 years. It doesn't throw codes, just works as intended.

 

[WS6_Keith]

Would it be reasonable to say that a tune would be pretty safe if it satisfied these 2 criteria:
-- that the increase in torque and boost does not impose mechanical stress beyond what the car components can handle,
and
-- the AIR-FUEL-RATIO (AFR) always remains below the level that predisposes to detonation in the cylinders?

I believe that's the goal when it comes to tuning, yes. In stock form, these cars run a bit rich (conservative) and compensate for airflow changes by monitoring A/F ratio in real time and adjust on the fly, within their allowable range. This is how the LAP3 Uncle Chip gets away with turning up the boost without having to control fuel also. It only turns it up enough to add some gain, without requiring the car to go outside of its pre-programmed limits for fuel adjustment due to WBO2 feedback.

Keith, you posted elsewhere some really neat dyno graphs of your Kia Optima with and without the Lap3 Uncle Chip. Did you measure AFR as well? If so, could you describe to us or show us your results? Also, do safe AFRs on dynos translate into safe AFRs in real world driving, with its constant changes in throttle levels and gears?

I also seem to recall your mentioning that you made some changes to the default 93 octane setting on the chip from 666 because of a minor issue. What do you think was the cause of the issue and how was the setting change able to resolve it?

Many thanks!

Yes, AFR was logged stock, as well as with each level in the Lap3 Uncle Chip. See the graphs below. HP on top, boost level in the middle and AFR on the bottom. 4 runs graphed. Orange is stock, green is with 89 octane setting, blue is with 91 octane setting and red is with 93 octane setting.



We only get 91 octane here in Vegas due to our elevation above sea level and the lower density altitude pressure here. In most cases, that means we can get away with the same tuning here at 2000'ASL with 91 octane fuel as someone at sea level would with 93 octane fuel. With the 93 octane setting, the box caused my car to knock at the very top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd, and right when the shift occurred into the next gear. That last 10hp wasn't worth the risk for me, so I went back to the 91 octane setting and it works great.

 

[mldavis2]

If a sensor somewhere were reporting an abnormal value, then these boxes wouldn't be working in any of the cars. I've had this in my Optima for 2 years. It doesn't throw codes, just works as intended.

Depends on what sensors throw codes. If you generate more power, there is more torque. If there is a torque reading on the LCD screen on the dash, then either that reading is a guesstimate based on some dumb pre-programmed values for the stock engine, OR it is going to show more torque due to tuning. If it is able to show more torque than the maximum available from a stock engine, it will have to be getting that information from somewhere, and that information will have to be outside of stock values. Not all sensors throw codes, so perhaps it is a moot point. I don't know the Kia systems, just common sense based on what I know about ECU sensor control of engine fuel systems. I'm not saying you're wrong, just skeptical that there isn't some value somewhere that is going to be above (or below) normal range IF the dash torque value shows above 376 n/m.

 

[WS6_Keith]

I don't know the Kia systems, just common sense based on what I know about ECU sensor control of engine fuel systems.

The Stinger might do more than the Optima in the way of checks, but if the mfg is selling them as tested for the Stinger without issues, I'd have to believe (based on my own experience with the Optima) that they will work as advertised.

 

[mldavis2]

The Stinger might do more than the Optima in the way of checks, but if the mfg is selling them as tested for the Stinger without issues, I'd have to believe (based on my own experience with the Optima) that they will work as advertised.

It's not the manufacturer, it's the dealership doing the mods.

 

[TJH]

We only get 91 octane here in Vegas due to our elevation above sea level and the lower density altitude pressure here. In most cases, that means we can get away with the same tuning here at 2000'ASL with 91 octane fuel as someone at sea level would with 93 octane fuel. With the 93 octane setting, the box caused my car to knock at the very top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd, and right when the shift occurred into the next gear. That last 10hp wasn't worth the risk for me, so I went back to the 91 octane setting and it works great.

Would that knocking be due to AFR leaning out beyond what the car can comprnsate for?

Supposing some months or years after installation, the piggyback fails. What do you think would be the possible consequences for the car, both likely and worst case?

Much appreciated.

 

[WS6_Keith]

It's not the manufacturer, it's the dealership doing the mods.

I meant the manufacturer of the piggy back box (LAP3).

 

[WS6_Keith]

Would that knocking be due to AFR leaning out beyond what the car can comprnsate for?

Supposing some months or years after installation, the piggyback fails. What do you think would be the possible consequences for the car, both likely and worst case?

Much appreciated.

My guess is that increased boost, timing and the lower octane fuel I was running (91 is the highest we get here, and the LAP3 was set on the 93 octane setting) was causing it.

I've had these in two of my cars and neither has had any issues. Because it plugs into the MAP and TIP sensors, I'd assume if it failed it would set a check engine light and set codes for MAP. Unplug the device, plug the stock harness back into the stock sensor and you'd be back moving in stock form in about 5 minutes or less.

 

[Speedybee]

Hi. I'm in New Zealand and I have a RWD White GT (GT2 I think you call them up your way). I've been reading all the posts on this forum regarding the lap 3 uncle chip and am keen to get one. The big issue for me is that the manufacturer recommends different plugs and a catch can. I can live with a catch can but I imagine doing the plugs on one of these motors would be a nightmare and it would be obvious to the dealership that the engine was modified. Do I have to do the plugs? Have you had any issues with plugs since the uncle chip went in?

 

[DesertStinger]

Considering what was discussed on this thread I would absolutely recommend getting the plugs if you're getting the chip https://www.kiastinger.org/forum/th...eviews-issues-diagnostic-and-questions-thread

Hi. I'm in New Zealand and I have a RWD White GT (GT2 I think you call them up your way). I've been reading all the posts on this forum regarding the lap 3 uncle chip and am keen to get one. The big issue for me is that the manufacturer recommends different plugs and a catch can. I can live with a catch can but I imagine doing the plugs on one of these motors would be a nightmare and it would be obvious to the dealership that the engine was modified. Do I have to do the plugs? Have you had any issues with plugs since the uncle chip went in?

 

[Larmyca]

Where ?

Kia Stinger LAP3 Uncle Chip review
So I received and installed my Uncle Chip yesterday. I know there have been some questions about how to install, but trust me, it really is simple; it truly is a 5 minute job, even for the non-mechanical. I'll go over it in a sec.

What you really want to know is whether it actually works, right? Let's just say I had reactions similar to these:
The V6 was already incredible; the thing is now an absolute BEAST.

Honestly I was hoping it would wake it up more in comfort mode, but it's still a little groggy. Perfectly fine for around town, leisurely, economical driving but it lugs a bit too much for my taste. Throw it in sport or custom (which I have set to match sport, except for the suspension), and it's wide awake and ready. If you come across a safe stretch of road and punch it, it's unlike anything in the class; the pull reminds me very much of either the M3 or ATS-v. It's unrelenting power; I was pushed back so hard I literally felt the seat move under the weight shift. Somewhere in the rev range, it now takes on a vtec like surge and the pitch of the engine changes to a howl. I'll do my best to get a video but you really have to experience it to believe it.

Back to installation; mirroring what [MENTION=46]STINGER[/MENTION] mentioned in the installation thread, the first connection is right in the front on the intercooler tube and you will need to remove the engine cover to expose the second. It's on the top of the engine, near the back, on the left side. Remove the OEM connector and insert the one from the chip that matches the OEM; then you'll insert the OEM into the OTHER end. Repeat this for both sensors.

The thing to remember before connecting any sensor, though, is to make sure the chip is set for the proper/desired octane. To do this, you'll need to open the chip, slide the inside out and turn the number dials to the proper selection (for instance, 6-6-6 for 93 octane).

Hope this helps a little. If you're looking to add quick, insane power, this is a good (and supposedly safe) way to get it.

where do you buy these chips? I am in Canada near Toronto....

 

[Larmyca]

Where ?

Kia Stinger LAP3 Uncle Chip review
So I received and installed my Uncle Chip yesterday. I know there have been some questions about how to install, but trust me, it really is simple; it truly is a 5 minute job, even for the non-mechanical. I'll go over it in a sec.

What you really want to know is whether it actually works, right? Let's just say I had reactions similar to these:
The V6 was already incredible; the thing is now an absolute BEAST.

Honestly I was hoping it would wake it up more in comfort mode, but it's still a little groggy. Perfectly fine for around town, leisurely, economical driving but it lugs a bit too much for my taste. Throw it in sport or custom (which I have set to match sport, except for the suspension), and it's wide awake and ready. If you come across a safe stretch of road and punch it, it's unlike anything in the class; the pull reminds me very much of either the M3 or ATS-v. It's unrelenting power; I was pushed back so hard I literally felt the seat move under the weight shift. Somewhere in the rev range, it now takes on a vtec like surge and the pitch of the engine changes to a howl. I'll do my best to get a video but you really have to experience it to believe it.

Back to installation; mirroring what [MENTION=46]STINGER[/MENTION] mentioned in the installation thread, the first connection is right in the front on the intercooler tube and you will need to remove the engine cover to expose the second. It's on the top of the engine, near the back, on the left side. Remove the OEM connector and insert the one from the chip that matches the OEM; then you'll insert the OEM into the OTHER end. Repeat this for both sensors.

The thing to remember before connecting any sensor, though, is to make sure the chip is set for the proper/desired octane. To do this, you'll need to open the chip, slide the inside out and turn the number dials to the proper selection (for instance, 6-6-6 for 93 octane).

Hope this helps a little. If you're looking to add quick, insane power, this is a good (and supposedly safe) way to get it.

where do you but these chips? I am in Canada near Toronto....would it work on the G 70?

 

[ATXStinger]

where do you but these chips? I am in Canada near Toronto....would it work on the G 70?

You folks up in Canada are taking delivery of the G70 already?

The chip goes in the engine bay, normally mounted near the fuse box.
[video=youtube;ZFO-JHiYKD8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFO-JHiYKD8[/video]

 

[Larmyca]

no, G 70 in a week or 2