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Kia Fun Facts - Did you know...?

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MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #21
Loving the tips man! Now, I was thinking I needed to set up the lease, make an initial payment (first month) then buy out the car. But you imply to NOT do this? Is that what you mean by a 1-pay lease? Rather, setup the lease in it's entirety, and do NOT make the first lease payment, rather just buy it out? But before I leave and complete the lease, don't I need to make the first payment before I walk out the door?...

Not sure what you mean by 1-Pay lease exactly, but it sounds like my idea of paying the first payment, and then buying out the entire car.

NOTE: I'll have sold my Mazda6 (I never do trade-ins), and have saved about $12k in cash also. Thus, I'll have about $24k in cash to use against the entire buyout. Based on my math, I'll have another $12k - $14k in a loan ready to go for the remainder of what I owe for the buyout.

This is the ONLY way I can see to make the $4,800 Lease Cash on a GT work really effectively for me. Get about $3k more off overall, vs even Costco Invoice - $500 + $750 rebate. Thus, seems the right approach to take when we are talking about thousands of dollars saved.
I'm a huge advocate for saving money! LOL

So, no. A 1-pay lease is when they add up all of your 36 payments into 1 payment and you pay that amount when you lease the car and then have no payments for the rest of your term. When you do that you're paying all of the rent charge in one lump as well.

As for your first payment, dealers tell you that you're first payment is due up front but that's not the case at all. They will just roll that payment into the other 35.
 
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#22
I'm a huge advocate for saving money! LOL

So, no. A 1-pay lease is when they add up all of your 36 payments into 1 payment and you pay that amount when you lease the car and then have no payments for the rest of your term. When you do that you're paying all of the rent charge in one lump as well.

As for your first payment, dealers tell you that you're first payment is due up front but that's not the case at all. They will just roll that payment into the other 35.
Thanks for more beltway lingo explanations! 1-Pay. Booo!!!! And yes, I don't see why I would need to pay on-the-spot on my first lease payment. Just bill me like everything else. And in 4 days I'll simply get a hold of Kia Financial and buy the car - which ELIMINATES:

? Rental Charge (36 months of Interest)
? Disposition Fee (because I'm buying the car. So no need to pay this fee to help cover possible great depreciation for Kia)

? I WILL be paying a few days of the first month's compound interest, but that appears to be about $12 or so... Uh, I can live.

Now, I am thinking to pay the dealer the following:
? Title and License Fees
? .5% sales tax (new to OR starting January 1st - thank Politicians - NOT!!!)
? Document Fee (if I must...)

And that's it. I'd rather pay this than have it rolled into the car, when I'm buying it all anyway. I'd rather leave the lease as CLEAN as possible with ONLY the car in it.

Any problems with that, or am I missing any additional dealer fees I should cry about when there? ; )
 
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#23
Wow Oregon just instituted sales tax? I used to live there and loved that I could buy a car and not pay sales tax. Especially when I was in the military and living out of state but keeping the car registered in OR. That's a huge bummer!!!!
 
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MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #24
Thanks for more beltway lingo explanations! 1-Pay. Booo!!!! And yes, I don't see why I would need to pay on-the-spot on my first lease payment. Just bill me like everything else. And in 4 days I'll simply get a hold of Kia Financial and buy the car - which ELIMINATES:

? Rental Charge (36 months of Interest)
? Disposition Fee (because I'm buying the car. So no need to pay this fee to help cover possible great depreciation for Kia)

? I WILL be paying a few days of the first month's compound interest, but that appears to be about $12 or so... Uh, I can live.

Now, I am thinking to pay the dealer the following:
? Title and License Fees
? .5% sales tax (new to OR starting January 1st - thank Politicians - NOT!!!)
? Document Fee (if I must...)

And that's it. I'd rather pay this than have it rolled into the car, when I'm buying it all anyway. I'd rather leave the lease as CLEAN as possible with ONLY the car in it.

Any problems with that, or am I missing any additional dealer fees I should cry about when there? ; )
Well, you could always come buy it from me!

While you won't pay the $400 disposition fee, you will pay a $300 purchase option fee.

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#25
I had planned on buying the car outright. The current financing rate ends on Feb. 28. Is there any rumor what Kia will do beginning March 1, [MENTION=291]MurlinatoR[/MENTION]? If the rate is lower than I can make on my investments, obviously financing is better than a lump sum. I don't pay interest to anyone unless I can make a better rate of return on mine than they want on theirs.
 
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MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #26
I had planned on buying the car outright. The current financing rate ends on Feb. 28. Is there any rumor what Kia will do beginning March 1, [MENTION=291]MurlinatoR[/MENTION]? If the rate is lower than I can make on my investments, obviously financing is better than a lump sum. I don't pay interest to anyone unless I can make a better rate of return on mine than they want on theirs.
We never know ahead of time. I speculate that it will stay largely the same.

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#27
We never know ahead of time. I speculate that it will stay largely the same.

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"I concur with MurlinatoR. Do you concur?" Name that movie?

But yes, Kia Financial holds all those cards, and that information isn't getting out. That info never gets out until the day it launches - March 1st. One day of advanced information and it's one day of potentially delayed or lost sales.

Do you know how much gross margin is in a Stinger model? Any car? No. No one has a clue save for a few bean counters at Kia, GM, insert car company name here. That information is gold, so until March 1st we wait.

I would suspect late fall, sometime around September we'll see the Finance Programs change to becoming more aggressive. Kia needs to keep the factory floor making cars, so no stalling out at year's end. Sell the existing inventory, provide some minor changes to packages for 2019, and away they go, and we get deals!
 
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#28
Wow Oregon just instituted sales tax? I used to live there and loved that I could buy a car and not pay sales tax. Especially when I was in the military and living out of state but keeping the car registered in OR. That's a huge bummer!!!!
[MENTION=254]BriTay[/MENTION], Yes, it is ONLY for new car purchases. Of course it's called a "privilege" tax (of course). With it, they raised the gas tax $0.11 over 3 years, and DMV and title and license fees. Now it's time for Cap & Trade, because Oregon can save the planet don't cha know. Should only cost the average family of four $1500 a year in additional engird taxes. Because if they tax us more, no one will want to heat their homes in the winter right?... Because natural gas is a real killer... I can go on and on and on, because the insanity is going on and on and on...

As for the car tax, indeed it's a massive bummer. The only way to skirt "some" of it, is to purchase a car via working the lease over (lease, then buyout the car immediately) as the tax is only assessed on the Adjusted Capital Cost, not the MSRP. I will be able to keep about $380 of my own money this way...
 

cazwizzle

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#29
Loving the tips man! Now, I was thinking I needed to set up the lease, make an initial payment (first month) then buy out the car. But you imply to NOT do this? Is that what you mean by a 1-pay lease? Rather, setup the lease in it's entirety, and do NOT make the first lease payment, rather just buy it out? But before I leave and complete the lease, don't I need to make the first payment before I walk out the door?...

Not sure what you mean by 1-Pay lease exactly, but it sounds like my idea of paying the first payment, and then buying out the entire car.

NOTE: I'll have sold my Mazda6 (I never do trade-ins), and have saved about $12k in cash also. Thus, I'll have about $24k in cash to use against the entire buyout. Based on my math, I'll have another $12k - $14k in a loan ready to go for the remainder of what I owe for the buyout.

This is the ONLY way I can see to make the $4,800 Lease Cash on a GT work really effectively for me. Get about $3k more off overall, vs even Costco Invoice - $500 + $750 rebate. Thus, seems the right approach to take when we are talking about thousands of dollars saved.
If you can pay cash, I can see the attraction of leasing with a huge incentive and then immediately paying for the car to realize the $3K savings over and above the negotiated price of the new car. However, if one is financing, consider the cost differential of a ~4% used car loan vs 0.9-2.9% that Kia is currently offering for a new car loan.

Am I correct in assuming that financing a lease buy-out would result in used car loan rates, not a new car loan rate?
 
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#30
If you can pay cash, I can see the attraction of leasing with a huge incentive and then immediately paying for the car to realize the $3K savings over and above the negotiated price of the new car. However, if one is financing, consider the cost differential of a ~4% used car loan vs 0.9-2.9% that Kia is currently offering for a new car loan.

Am I correct in assuming that financing a lease buy-out would result in used car loan rates, not a new car loan rate?
Yeah, I've thought of the used car loan also. I can get one for around 3% from a Credit Union (good credit). Plus, my loan would be about $12k (the rest is from saving up, and cash from selling my current car). Thus, a 60mo loan at 3% for $12k and I pay it off in about 2.5 years. Minimal interest. But that's a very good point for those that might be needing a large loan and won't be able to pay it off for 60 months.

Thanks Caswizzle
 
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#31
Yeah, I've thought of the used car loan also. I can get one for around 3% from a Credit Union (good credit). Plus, my loan would be about $12k (the rest is from saving up, and cash from selling my current car). Thus, a 60mo loan at 3% for $12k and I pay it off in about 2.5 years. Minimal interest. But that's a very good point for those that might be needing a large loan and won't be able to pay it off for 60 months.

Thanks Caswizzle
The flaw in that logic is that interest is always front-end loaded, so you pay the interest off first and less of the car as the balance shifts. If you pay off a 60 month load in 30 months, you will have paid the lion's share of interest up front.
 
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Thread Starter #32
[MENTION=254]BriTay[/MENTION], Yes, it is ONLY for new car purchases. Of course it's called a "privilege" tax (of course). With it, they raised the gas tax $0.11 over 3 years, and DMV and title and license fees. Now it's time for Cap & Trade, because Oregon can save the planet don't cha know. Should only cost the average family of four $1500 a year in additional engird taxes. Because if they tax us more, no one will want to heat their homes in the winter right?... Because natural gas is a real killer... I can go on and on and on, because the insanity is going on and on and on...

As for the car tax, indeed it's a massive bummer. The only way to skirt "some" of it, is to purchase a car via working the lease over (lease, then buyout the car immediately) as the tax is only assessed on the Adjusted Capital Cost, not the MSRP. I will be able to keep about $380 of my own money this way...
[MENTION=477]MarkyMark[/MENTION], you WILL have to pay the tax on the residual after you purchase it. FYI
 
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#33
[MENTION=477]MarkyMark[/MENTION], you WILL have to pay the tax on the residual after you purchase it. FYI
@mildavis2 and Murlinator,

There is only a .5% sales tax in Oregon. That is figured on the Adj. Capital cost when leasing (at least I believe that's what I have read/been told). Saves me about $300+ vs against MSRP, which is how OR does it.

NO sales tax when purchasing anything but a new car. So zero for us here on the used leased vehicle.

As for a $12k loan at 3% interest:

- 0.9% 60mo: $12,000 borrowed = $12,277
- 3.0$ 60mo: $`12,000 borrowed = $12,937

Thus, a whopping $660 saved in purchasing vs lease buyout with the loan % difference. Still makes thousands more sense to utilize the$4,800 lease cash.

Now, I also pay off my loans, throwing money at the Principal over time and pay them off in about 2 years. So the .9% is almost nothing, and the 3% loan sees a decent chunk of interest also cut off.

Unless I'm missing something, it still makes a decent financial move to purchase this way (lease - buyout), yes?..
 
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Thread Starter #34
@mildavis2 and Murlinator,

There is only a .5% sales tax in Oregon. That is figured on the Adj. Capital cost when leasing (at least I believe that's what I have read/been told). Saves me about $300+ vs against MSRP, which is how OR does it.

NO sales tax when purchasing anything but a new car. So zero for us here on the used leased vehicle.

As for a $12k loan at 3% interest:

- 0.9% 60mo: $12,000 borrowed = $12,277
- 3.0$ 60mo: $`12,000 borrowed = $12,937

Thus, a whopping $660 saved in purchasing vs lease buyout with the loan % difference. Still makes thousands more sense to utilize the$4,800 lease cash.

Now, I also pay off my loans, throwing money at the Principal over time and pay them off in about 2 years. So the .9% is almost nothing, and the 3% loan sees a decent chunk of interest also cut off.

Unless I'm missing something, it still makes a decent financial move to purchase this way (lease - buyout), yes?..
Yes, lease to buy.
 

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#35
Hahahaha

We'll talk more about this whole "ownership" thing soon. ;-)

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I?d love more insight regarding the relationship between Hyundai and Kia. They appear to share drivetrain and parts bin bits, but I?m not clear about the ownership, etc. Any further insights? It sounds like you may have been active in sales when everything went down?
 
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Thread Starter #36
Kia REALLY owns Hyundai.

So, this is going to shake the foundations of many intelligent car folks out there. Everyone in the US has been fed the idea that Hyundai owns Kia or that they are akin to Chevy/Pontiac or Ford/Mercury. This is truly NOT the case. Let me explain...

So, Kia started in 1944. We discussed that earlier. Hyundai, the steel and transportation company started Hyundai Motor in 1967, almost 3 decades after Kia. They both operated completely independent in Korea for years. Kia is the major auto manufacturer in Korea, supplying them with their military vehicles, commercial trucks, and passenger buses as well. Kia and Hyundai were direct head to head competition just like Honda and Toyota are in Japan, until 1998.

In 1998, South Korea went through a MAJOR financial crisis. Kia was in the process of establishing themselves and their dealer network in the US at the time, having entered this market in 1994.

Here's the important part of the equation. In America, when the crap hits the fan and companies run out of cash and risk financial ruin, our government props everything up with dollar bills. We plugged the gaping hole by letting our government purchase major PUBLIC corporations and use cash to stop the hemorrhaging. ONLY IN AMERICA does a federal government borrow the peoples money to prop up private companies for political control. Everywhere else in the world it's sink or swim. Either you make it or you don't financially.

So, in 1998 when Korea was faced with sever financial collapse, Kia, the major automotive manufacturer, and Hyundai, the major transportation and steel supplier, decided to "diversify their portfolio" so to speak. Kia sold 33% of their stock to Hyundai Motors. In exchange, Kia purchased stock in more than TWENTY different Hyundai companies and subsidiaries. The fact is that Kia owns more than $2,000,000,000 (BILLION) more of Hyundai than Hyundai owns of Kia.

There were some rules set in place when Kia and Hyundai started playing as friends instead of competitors. The first major rule was that, while they start with the same basic electronic "platform", they had to make changes to the vehicles so that they were not twins. For example, the Sportage has the 2.4L and the 2.0L Turbo where the Tucson uses the 2.0L NON Turbo and the 1.6L Turbo. The Sorento has a .75" shorter wheelbase than the SantaFe. The second major rule was that they were NOT allowed to compete against each other. Never will you find Hyundai comparing their cars against Kia's or vise versa.

Now, let me point out how these things work in the real world for examples. First, the Sedona van. Kia brought it from the east (Kia Carnival) to the US in 2001. Van sales soared. In 2006, Hyundai said "Can we have the platform please?" Kia said sure. The 2007 Entourage showed up being a carbon copy of the Sedona. Kia yanked the plans in 2008 and the Entourage disappeared. How about the Niro/Ionic. Kia built the crossover and would not let Hyundai have the platform. Niro's thrive and the Ionic is flat. Kia brought the Soul in 2009. Hyundai wanted it and Kia said no. Instead Hyundai made the Velostar.

Kia also get's variants before Hyundai. Our Optima was redesigned in 2016, the Sonata was 2018. The Forte remade in 2017, the Elantra 2018. Kia won't let them build a variant of the Stinger and the G70 with a similar power train is a year behind. Kia will bring the Telluride to our lineup that Hyundai won't get for 12-18 months, if at all. The 2017 Optima Hybrid was remade and the Sonata was just unveiled.

Now ask yourself, why does Kia out perform Hyundai in the quality tests by JD Power or Consumer Reports? It's because they make different cars from different assembly lines at different factories.

So, while they may be considered cousins, they are in fact two different auto manufacturers who simply share some financial interest and suppliers. LOL
 
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#37
Thanks, [MENTION=291]MurlinatoR[/MENTION], very interesting and informative.
 
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Thread Starter #38
Kia's are actually cover by about EIGHT different warranties here in the US!

That's right! So, the first thing to know is that Kia's full warranty program covers the vehicle for the ORIGINAL owner of the vehicle at no cost and deductible free. 2nd subsequent owners get partial but not full warranty.

The common ones:
5 year or 60,000 mile Basic warranty. In the old days, this was called a bumper to bumper. Good rule of thumb; if you touch it daily OR if it get wet and salty in the weather, it's covered by the BASIC.
10 year or 100,000 mile Power Train warranty. This warranty covers pretty much anything that is SEALED and OILED. If it is protected from the wet and salt it's probably covered by the PT. The PT warranty also covers all hybrid components INCLUDING the battery.

The NOT-SO common ones:
5 year or 60,000 Roadside Assistance. Kia has more than 17,000 companies networked all over the country to assist their owners for FREE. 24/7/365. Also includes up to $300 in Trip Interruption service ($100/day for 3 days for pre-approved hotel, food, or travel expenses) in case something happens when you're more than 150 miles from your home address. RSA covers you for locksmith, jump start, 3 gallons of gasoline, flat tire, or towing.
3 year or 36,000 mile 12V battery warranty. Kia covers your battery COMPLETELY for this period. NOT prorated.
3 year or 36,000 mile Audio/Entertainment warranty. This covers your stereo or factory installed DVD player.
3 year or 36,000 mile Paint warranty. This covers any FACTORY defects in the paint.
5 year or 60,000 mile Anti-Perforation warranty. This covers any HOLE that is eaten in the metal from rust.
12 month or 12,000 mile Service Adjustments warranty. This one is cool. Kia will cover even the wearable, non-typical warranty items for the first year for free. Light bulbs, hoses, belts, brake pads and rotors, tires, alignment, and wheel balance.

All of this warranty applies to every Kia owner, new or used, EXCEPT the 10/100,000 PT warranty. If the used car is purchased as a Certified Pre-Owned car (CPO), then the 10/100,000 is reinstated by the Kia dealer for a fee to the dealer. An extra bonus to the CPO buyer is that the Roadside Assistance extends to TEN YEARS (no mileage limit) from the date that the used buyer purchases the car. That's pretty cool!
 

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