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Plugs.... here goes nothing!

MurlinatoR

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#1
Well, today is my first day off since I have my car back from being repainted. I've had my JB4 waiting patiently in the box for 4 weeks now! LOL

I'm going to regap my factory plugs rather than replace them because I have much faith in the ones from Korea to hold strong once gapped properly!

Here we go...


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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #2
So, I know it's kind of silly and really isn't going to do me any good, but I decided while I'm at it I might as well put in a lame set of permanent filters instead.

Side note, definitely not putting a K&N sticker on my car. LOL


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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #3
You guys are also going to have to excuse my sloppy yellow mess! LOL I took my car from the body shop before they had a chance to detail it so it's still super dirty.

Now, I know that Tork made a video with pulling the manifold off to change these plugs, but after looking at them and seeing another video online I think that I can get to them without pulling the whole thing apart. Let's see!


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robz32

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#4
Yes, you can change the spark plugs without removing the intake plenum, you will need to use a swivel socket.

[video=youtube;gS14KZ2B6wA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS14KZ2B6wA[/video]
 
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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #5
Well, so far I did have to remove the charge pipe from the throttle body.

FYI, these are caps that come off with a screw driver. LOL


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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #6
Next lessons; easier to remove the coil plug BEFORE removing the mounting bolt. LOL

Also, I found my 10mm box wrench much easier than the swivel for the tight ones...


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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #7
Just something to note, there are distinct differences between the coils on the driver and passenger side. They are denoted by a sticker on top and the plug is turned vertical at a 45 degree angle for the drivers side.

Also, my swivel didn't get used for the coils. Much easier without in my opinion.




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Last edited:

robz32

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#8
It is recommended to do one plug at a time, to prevent exactly what you just mentioned, mixing the coils.

Also the swivel is recommended for when you are removing the spark plug itself not the coils.
 
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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #9
So, I got five plugs out without problem. The hardest plug to access, the center on the passenger side, I could not get too. Now, I only have one swivel. Maybe two would have helped? Too late now because I proceeded forward.

My solution was to loosen the bolts on the manifold. About a dozen of them or so. Did not physically take any out completely other than the big fat 14 mm on the passenger's side manifold bracket.


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robz32

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#10
You need something along these lines, in order to remove the spark plugs without messing with the plenum.

20181002_175843.jpg

20181002_175914.jpg
 
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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #12
So, all of my plugs look good and we're all gapped at .035+/-. With A Thousand Miles, these NGK IR plugs aren't burnt or discolored.

Closed them all to .024+/- and time to put them back in!


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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #13
Needless to say, going back together was the easiest part. LOL

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#14
So, all of my plugs look good and we're all gapped at .0035+/-. With A Thousand Miles, these NGK IR plugs aren't burnt or discolored.

Closed them all to .0024+/- and time to put them back in!


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Do you think it will make a difference for .0011'' ? It's like split one hair in 4
 
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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #15
Do you think it will make a difference for .0011'' ? It's like split one hair in 4
Oh, it would shock you how much of a difference 10 thousandths will make! Just wait until some engineers read that question! Hahaha

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#16
Oh, it would shock you how much of a difference 10 thousandths will make! Just wait until some engineers read that question! Hahaha

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.0024'' is the best gap ? I'm machiniste, it's why I'm curious!!! lolll
 
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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #17
.0024'' is the best gap ? I'm machiniste, it's why I'm curious!!! lolll
Hahahahaha

Well, that's about what the $150-$200 plugs are gapped at so...

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#18
If you are going to add higher boost then .024 is about right. At .035 the higher boost blows the spark out which can cause the spark to find it's way back to the insulator and you end up with cracked plugs and eventually a bad coil. I am running the NGK plugs with a LAP3 at 93 octane now for several 1000 miles with 0 issues. Gap is .025 on those plugs I believe.
 
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MurlinatoR

MurlinatoR

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Thread Starter #19
Think of it like a flame. A match can be blown out easily but a torch will not. The closer the gap, the stronger the spark.

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#20
Think of it like a flame. A match can be blown out easily but a torch will not. The closer the gap, the stronger the spark.

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Oh you said .0024-.0036'' gap, you probably mean .024-.036'' its a big difference, it's why I asked you if .0012 will make a difference, but it's not .0012, it's about .012'' lolll
 

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