- Messages
- 2,045
- Likes
- 648
- City
- Houston
- State
- TX
- Country
- United States
- What I Drive
- Stinger GT2
Tools required
1x Short Philips screw driver
1x Long Phillips screw driver
Electrical tape
Wire crimpers
Pliers
Quick splice connect plugs (got them from amazon HERE)
Get your DRLs Here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Bumper-Surface-Emission-LED-Fog-Lamp-Light-DRL-For-Kia-2018-2019-Stinger/173354479613?fits=Make:Kia|Model:Stinger&hash=item285cbb6ffd:g:Iy0AAOSwo9VbGNUj
For this installation I recommend having someone with the proper tools and preferably a lift do the work, as there are quite a few parts that need to be removed in order to gain access and install also wiring connections to be done on the headlight harness.
On this installation I gained access to a lift to make installation much easier.
Once the car is up in the air, proceed to remove both front wheels
After the wheel has been removed proceed to the removal of the clips holding the/attaching the splash shields
NOTE: there are five (5) clips that need to be removed inside the wheel well and three (3) under the corner of the front bumper.
Wheel well
Front bumper corner
Once you have removed the clips, proceed to move the splash shield pulling form the bottom corner (where it attaches to the front bumper). Keep in mind that you will NOT be removing the splash shield completely, you will be moving it off to the side in order to gain access to the vent ducts in the front bumper, do not worry the plastic is flexible and strong enough and will not break.
With the splash moved out of the way, you will then proceed to remove the duct that directs air to the side of the car. This is done by unscrewing the two (2) screws and removing two (2) clips that hold it to the air vent and the front bumper.
With the air duct removed you will now have access to the air vent. Should look like the photo below.
Now in my case, the DRL came with the air vent, however I found that removing the air vent is nearly impossible with the front bumper mounted on the car.
Upon further inspection of the DRL and air vent I noticed that the center part of the air vent (the part containing the LED for the DRL) can be detached from the vent itself. It is only held/attached by very flexible plastic clips. So I went ahead and detached the center piece from the air vent itself
In order to separate these two pieces you need to start CAREFULLY pulling the center piece from the top of the vent and work your way down. No need for tool on this one, your hands are more than enough.
Once you have separated both center pieces from the air vents you will need to the same on the vents that are mounted on the bumper. The same process and technique applies.
NOTE: Since the cables from the DRLs are going to be exposed to debris and water from the road I highly recommend using the electrical tape and cover them, including the circuit board that is attached to it. It also prevents them from getting tangled on to something else and makes the installation look cleaner
With the center pieces removed from the air vent mounted on the bumper, proceed to mount the DRL center pieces on the air vents. Making sure that all clips go through and that the pieces is lined up correctly. HINT: there are making on each center piece that identifies which side it belongs to.
NOTE: Be careful when mounting the DRL and not push in from the middle part (where cable comes out) as that is where the electronic board and LED's are housed.
I also zip tied the circuit board to a wire harness that was nearby in order to keep it from moving around and hitting stuff when the car is in movement.
Now that everything is mounted you will need to run the wires upwards, into the engine bay, more specifically behind the headlight.
Don't worry the wires are long enough and they will easily reach.
Now here is where the wiring fun starts.
You will need to disconnect the headlight harness and peel back some of the electrical tape. This is needed to gain access to wires that need to be tapped into from the DRLs.
You will also need to use your Quick splice connect connectors.
NOTE: I have a GT2 with the Light Bending System and LED headlight. Other models may have different wiring harness.
[table="width: 500"]
[tr]
[td]DRL[/td]
[td]CAR[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]BLACK[/td]
[td]BLACK/ORANGE[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]WHITE[/td]
[td]BLACK[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]RED[/td]
[td]ORANGE[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]
Once you are finished it should look like this.
This DRL will work with or without your lights set to ON or AUTO. As they are powered by the ignition.
Once all connections are made proceed to test and if everything is properly connected, it should look like below.
Ignition ON
Hazards/Turn signals
Parking lights/Headlights ON
BIG Thanks to @RPMTRADE for the DRLs and the Blazin fast shipping
Hope this helps.
Rob
1x Short Philips screw driver
1x Long Phillips screw driver
Electrical tape
Wire crimpers
Pliers
Quick splice connect plugs (got them from amazon HERE)
Get your DRLs Here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Bumper-Surface-Emission-LED-Fog-Lamp-Light-DRL-For-Kia-2018-2019-Stinger/173354479613?fits=Make:Kia|Model:Stinger&hash=item285cbb6ffd:g:Iy0AAOSwo9VbGNUj
For this installation I recommend having someone with the proper tools and preferably a lift do the work, as there are quite a few parts that need to be removed in order to gain access and install also wiring connections to be done on the headlight harness.
On this installation I gained access to a lift to make installation much easier.
Once the car is up in the air, proceed to remove both front wheels
After the wheel has been removed proceed to the removal of the clips holding the/attaching the splash shields
NOTE: there are five (5) clips that need to be removed inside the wheel well and three (3) under the corner of the front bumper.
Wheel well
Front bumper corner
Once you have removed the clips, proceed to move the splash shield pulling form the bottom corner (where it attaches to the front bumper). Keep in mind that you will NOT be removing the splash shield completely, you will be moving it off to the side in order to gain access to the vent ducts in the front bumper, do not worry the plastic is flexible and strong enough and will not break.
With the splash moved out of the way, you will then proceed to remove the duct that directs air to the side of the car. This is done by unscrewing the two (2) screws and removing two (2) clips that hold it to the air vent and the front bumper.
With the air duct removed you will now have access to the air vent. Should look like the photo below.
Now in my case, the DRL came with the air vent, however I found that removing the air vent is nearly impossible with the front bumper mounted on the car.
Upon further inspection of the DRL and air vent I noticed that the center part of the air vent (the part containing the LED for the DRL) can be detached from the vent itself. It is only held/attached by very flexible plastic clips. So I went ahead and detached the center piece from the air vent itself
In order to separate these two pieces you need to start CAREFULLY pulling the center piece from the top of the vent and work your way down. No need for tool on this one, your hands are more than enough.
Once you have separated both center pieces from the air vents you will need to the same on the vents that are mounted on the bumper. The same process and technique applies.
NOTE: Since the cables from the DRLs are going to be exposed to debris and water from the road I highly recommend using the electrical tape and cover them, including the circuit board that is attached to it. It also prevents them from getting tangled on to something else and makes the installation look cleaner
With the center pieces removed from the air vent mounted on the bumper, proceed to mount the DRL center pieces on the air vents. Making sure that all clips go through and that the pieces is lined up correctly. HINT: there are making on each center piece that identifies which side it belongs to.
NOTE: Be careful when mounting the DRL and not push in from the middle part (where cable comes out) as that is where the electronic board and LED's are housed.
I also zip tied the circuit board to a wire harness that was nearby in order to keep it from moving around and hitting stuff when the car is in movement.
Now that everything is mounted you will need to run the wires upwards, into the engine bay, more specifically behind the headlight.
Don't worry the wires are long enough and they will easily reach.
Now here is where the wiring fun starts.
You will need to disconnect the headlight harness and peel back some of the electrical tape. This is needed to gain access to wires that need to be tapped into from the DRLs.
You will also need to use your Quick splice connect connectors.
NOTE: I have a GT2 with the Light Bending System and LED headlight. Other models may have different wiring harness.
[table="width: 500"]
[tr]
[td]DRL[/td]
[td]CAR[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]BLACK[/td]
[td]BLACK/ORANGE[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]WHITE[/td]
[td]BLACK[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]RED[/td]
[td]ORANGE[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]
Once you are finished it should look like this.
This DRL will work with or without your lights set to ON or AUTO. As they are powered by the ignition.
Once all connections are made proceed to test and if everything is properly connected, it should look like below.
Ignition ON
Hazards/Turn signals
Parking lights/Headlights ON
BIG Thanks to @RPMTRADE for the DRLs and the Blazin fast shipping
Hope this helps.
Rob
Last edited:
