Kia Stinger Out The Door Price Thread

[MarkyMark]

This has been discussed and debated heavily... The speedometer is the first problem... KPH vs MPH. Secondly, the warranty from my understanding, would be void once registered in the US.

-Matt

Makes sense. If getting a version with Heads Up Display, I can only assume it can be changed to MPH from KPH... But the physical odometer wouldn't get very good...

Warranty - that would be a big no-go. Thanks for the heads up (not display of course). ; )

~Mark

 

[GTexas]

Ok! Good news (and a little bad).

Went to Ancira in San Antonio. Decent experience until the end. I will get to that.

I got a Ceramic Silver GT2 AWD sticker $52,515 for $49,515 after some back and forth.

I rounded:

Texas tax of $2500
Registration fee of $260
Doc fee of $150
Acquisition fee of $650

I then got the $7,000 cash back and another $400 for military discount = $7400 from KIA.

So after all said and done my adjusted cap cost (the final number they calculate the lease payment from) would have been about $46K before I traded an old beater in and made a small down payment on the visa.

A word of caution about Ancira. They gave me a great deal but I had to go back the next day and get the contract corrected. The finance lady made the entire signing process very confusing and she must have thought I was saying yes to things that I wasn't. That's possible, as she was very confusing to follow and made it seem like I was getting certain things at no cost. It was 9:30 PM and I was exhausted. My best advice, just state plainly that you want ZERO add ons. Hard to have any confusion about that. All that Prepaid maintenance and wheel protection and life insurance is likely to go unused and is thus pure profit for KIA anyway and it made my great deal less great.

Credit to Ancira though, they corrected the contract the next day when I was rested and looking at it all with fresh eyes and noticed the discrepancies in negotiated price. They got rid of all the add ons when I told them I didn't want them and never did want them if they weren't actually included already. I respect that. They seem to run a good tight ship so I expect my experience may be unique or it may be just the one finance lady who prefers to be less than transparent.

The finance person who fixed everything was stellar.

And again I got a screaming deal. Can't take that away from Ancira. I do recommend them, but just be prepared to be very clear about the final negotiated sales price and make sure that shows up verbatim in the contract with no add ons.

-W

Congrats! I purchased mine from Ancira too.

 

[jaygee15]

Is the lease cash still available?

 

[ghedoicy]

Is the lease cash still available?

Yes.

-Matt

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[Dan_Harkinz]

Looking to buy a new Stinger

Hey everyone I'm new to the forum because I'm in the market to possibly get a new Stinger. I have been interested in the GT1 for it's supposedly better sound system* and sightly better interior over the GT1.

Problem is, I have to deal with some very interesting dealers. Basically making offers that are clearly too good to be true with incentives and rebates I may not even quality for.

I don't really have a lot of experience with buying cars but I do work in a field which is dependant on negotiations but to be successful I need better knowledge and information.

Right now I have a dealer trying to get me on a Red GTR1 at or around $46,000 it's. Reviewing information from autobyel(SP) I see the invoice sitting around $40,570 with an MSRP of 43,250.00.

Not sure what the best way to approach the negotiations. I have asked the dealer to submit the numbers for review but they refuse requesting I come in to indicate that I'm a "serious buyer". Which I have come in prior it's just they're not very close so it kind of sucks to keep spending 2 hours both ways just for information.

What is the best way to approach this? What is a reasonable good deal on the GT1? If you're not a fan of the sound system would you just recommend taking the GT instead?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[ghedoicy]

Hey everyone I'm new to the forum because I'm in the market to possibly get a new Stinger. I have been interested in the GT1 for it's supposedly better sound system* and sightly better interior over the GT1.

Problem is, I have to deal with some very interesting dealers. Basically making offers that are clearly too good to be true with incentives and rebates I may not even quality for.

I don't really have a lot of experience with buying cars but I do work in a field which is dependant on negotiations but to be successful I need better knowledge and information.

Right now I have a dealer trying to get me on a Red GTR1 at or around $46,000 it's. Reviewing information from autobyel(SP) I see the invoice sitting around $40,570 with an MSRP of 43,250.00.

Not sure what the best way to approach the negotiations. I have asked the dealer to submit the numbers for review but they refuse requesting I come in to indicate that I'm a "serious buyer". Which I have come in prior it's just they're not very close so it kind of sucks to keep spending 2 hours both ways just for information.

What is the best way to approach this? What is a reasonable good deal on the GT1? If you're not a fan of the sound system would you just recommend taking the GT instead?

Thanks for any advice!

I'd let them know you are not coming in. It's a sales tactic to get you in the door. I've run into it many times, but never budge. Ask them to test your seriousness and risk losing you.

I've gotten GT2 numbers near what you're getting for the GT1... So not a great price.

How are they advertising it to you?

-Matt

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[yumdump]

That dealer sounds no fun. Pressure is never good for the soul. I would recommend making a road trip out of your experience and use a dealer that?s farther away but easier to work with to close the deal entirely over the phone and email.

 

[mldavis2]

I would shop the car around unless you just absolutely cannot find a color and options you think you MUST have and only one dealer has it. Either way, let them know you're shopping and tell them there is nothing you need to be at the dealership for. I had one dealer try to pressure me and I walked. Bought the car elsewhere and went back to the showfloor when getting an oil change and told them why I bought my car somewhere else for $3,000 less money. A lot depends on who the sales manager (NOT the salesman who has absolutely no control over the deal) is, and how much profit they think they need. It's also often better to approach them at the very end of the month when they are hungry for filling quotas. Wait until the 30th or 31st before going back to them and you'll probably get a better quote. Just be very very careful and know your true MSRP and Dealer Invoice numbers (about $3,000 difference on the Stingers). There is no reason these guys need to make a $5,000 profit for 30 minutes worth of work.

 

[GuiltyDesign777]

I sent out emails to pretty much every Kia dealer within a 75 mile radius asking for quotes/information. All of them except one were more than happy to oblige my request... needless to say, the one dealer who didn't is known for extremely annoying commercials and high pressure tactics.
If you have to drive a bit to get the best deal and experience, I think it is absolutely worth it. Besides, when you get your Stinger it gives you an even longer drive back home to fall deeper in love with it.

 

[Dan_Harkinz]

I'd let them know you are not coming in. It's a sales tactic to get you in the door. I've run into it many times, but never budge. Ask them to test your seriousness and risk losing you.

I've gotten GT2 numbers near what you're getting for the GT1... So not a great price.

How are they advertising it to you?

-Matt

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That the vehicle MSRP and it includes a dessert protection package and the drive wise package but not dealer fees, tax and title. So should I just email them send tell them I'll do the GT1 for $40k? I'm unsure what a fair deal would be for the GT1.

 

[mldavis2]

Protection packages are really just insurance policies sold by dealers for extra profit. The policies are almost always from some insurance company, not from Kia. Be very careful before you agree to pay for one. If you take care of your stuff, it is almost always cheaper to self-insure for something that by all probability won't happen or be needed.

I don't like them for a couple of reasons. One is that they know the probability that it would pay off. Watch very very carefully for exclusions because there are usually some significant ones. Another is that both the insurance company and the finance manager and dealership get a commission on top of the risk factor. Finally most of the time those people who expect to use them or who have had bad experience from their own use of the car are the only ones who feel like buying them. That is an "adverse selection" factor that also adds to the cost because careful (and lucky) people seldom cash in on the protection.

So get the price of the deal without the dealer add-ons, then decide if you want to up the cost and buy the extra stuff. If you start including insurance coverages, they all differ from one dealer to the next and you can't accurately compare deals -- which is exactly what the dealer wants.

 

[BlaydeX15]

Picked up a Micro Blue RWD GT for $32,000ish after incentives/lease cash. Could probably have talked them down further, but the other dealer I had been talking to tried to BS me by quoting a no tax/fees price on the same car, which pissed me off and guaranteed I wouldn't go to them, and I wanted to get home before dark (2.5hr drive to dealer).

With 2k up front, I'm at $460/mo on a 36mo/36k mile lease. I'm sure somebody more experienced could have gotten a better deal, but I won't complain. Lol.

Edit: Grabbed the papers.

Micro Blue GT RWD - No options or addons. (They tried to pre-add some, but that just saved me money when I took them off in finance! Haha.)

"MSRP": 39,375

Agreed upon price: 36,250

Acquisition fee: 650
Doc fee: 239
License/Reg/Title: 229.50
Sales/Use tax: 15.77

Discounts (Dealer discount + Lease Cash) - 4800

Total: $32,584

 

[ghedoicy]

That the vehicle MSRP and it includes a dessert protection package and the drive wise package but not dealer fees, tax and title. So should I just email them send tell them I'll do the GT1 for $40k? I'm unsure what a fair deal would be for the GT1.

Tell them you want it for invoice.

There is a thread with that number.

-Matt

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[Dan_Harkinz]

Tell them you want it for invoice.

There is a thread with that number.

-Matt

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Alright let me see if I can find the thread, thanks for the input all.

 

[mldavis2]

"MSRP": 39,375

Agreed upon price: 36,250

Acquisition fee: 650
Doc fee: 239
License/Reg/Title: 229.50
Sales/Use tax: 15.77

Discounts (Dealer discount + Lease Cash) - 4800

Total: $32,584

A fair deal overall. However I don't know what the "Acquisition fee" is. You paid two fees there. The "Doc fee" is supposedly the cost of preparing the paper work and lease or finance agreement. Some states fix that amount, others do not and the dealer can load it up for extra profit. On my car, which was "balloon financed" there was only the "Service and Handling" fee that also included mandatory local advertising costs which are mandatory. My S&H fee was $129. Transportation should have been a flat $900 for all Stingers from Kia and included in the bottom line of the Moroney (MSRP) sticker. I'd sure as heck like to know what that "Acquisition Fee" really is (was.) Maybe an additional transport fee if the dealer had to get the car from another dealer? Maybe just hidden profit.

On my car, it was very simple:
MSRP which included the standard $900 transport fee - $52,300
Less Discount as agreed off of MSRP
Less Kia rebate
Less Trade-in Allowance
Plus "Service and Handling" - $129
---------------------------
Total Net Cost (license and taxes paid directly to the DOT, not the dealer)

 

[MurlinatoR]

A fair deal overall. However I don't know what the "Acquisition fee" is. You paid two fees there. The "Doc fee" is supposedly the cost of preparing the paper work and lease or finance agreement. Some states fix that amount, others do not and the dealer can load it up for extra profit. On my car, which was "balloon financed" there was only the "Service and Handling" fee that also included mandatory local advertising costs which are mandatory. My S&H fee was $129. Transportation should have been a flat $900 for all Stingers from Kia and included in the bottom line of the Moroney (MSRP) sticker. I'd sure as heck like to know what that "Acquisition Fee" really is (was.) Maybe an additional transport fee if the dealer had to get the car from another dealer? Maybe just hidden profit.

On my car, it was very simple:
MSRP which included the standard $900 transport fee - $52,300
Less Discount as agreed off of MSRP
Less Kia rebate
Less Trade-in Allowance
Plus "Service and Handling" - $129
---------------------------
Total Net Cost (license and taxes paid directly to the DOT, not the dealer)

An acquisition fee is a required fee built into a lease. Every lease has one. He doesn't have the balloon finance option like you did in Missouri. I also don't have that option in Illinois so I'll have the acq fee on mine also.

 

[mldavis2]

An acquisition fee is a required fee built into a lease. Every lease has one. He doesn't have the balloon finance option like you did in Missouri. I also don't have that option in Illinois so I'll have the acq fee on mine also.

Wow, big fee for little of nothing. I bought mine in Arkansas, not Missouri but registered and tagged in Missouri. That's almost $900 in nothing but "fees." Quite a racket. I can't imagine what costs $650 for paperwork! Sorry.... There was no fee for financing or credit check on mine, and I just paid it off to avoid any interest.

 

[MarkyMark]

I'd let them know you are not coming in. It's a sales tactic to get you in the door. I've run into it many times, but never budge. Ask them to test your seriousness and risk losing you.

I've gotten GT2 numbers near what you're getting for the GT1... So not a great price.

How are they advertising it to you?

-Matt

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Couldn't agree more with Matt. I would start on the internet, or call to find out who the internet sales person is (or fleet person) often the same salesman/woman.

You have the invoice, so when I purchase (fall/winter) I will start with 3 or so dealers Interent folks via this process:

Step 1: Costco
That may be my first and last step right there (outside of verification from a dealer or two that they won't compete). I shopped for a CX-9 for my folks two months ago this way. Costco is about $500 over invoice, generally speaking. I dealt with some dealers and the Costco program just cut through all the crap and I got the best deal that way without the hassle.

Step 2: Validate
Once I have the Costco pricing, I'd then work on the internet with a few of the Internet guys. There are NOT a lot of Costco dealers in any given area, so calling upon other dealers for pricing quotations shouldn't be an issue. Let them know you have a Costco quotation and if they will beat it?

NOTE: The dealers will ALL ask what the Costco price is. And that makes NO difference to what they are willing to sell the car for. I will be telling them, "Well, I have the Costco pricing, but the best you can do is the best you can do, right? I just wanted you to know I have very good pricing via the Costco program and want to see if your best can beat that. If so, we have a sale, if not, it validates Costco has a great program for it's members, that's all."

I would never tell them the best pricing you receive - ever. If so, they'll match or go $100 or something silly below it and your advantage is gone.

Step 3: That's it.

Just get the Costco pricing, shop a few dealers and see who provides the best. I'm guessing Costco will provide the best pricing for you

Oh, and just be sure you ask if the pricing is WITH or WITHOUT the $750 factory to customer incentive and captive financing. You want to know what the quotes represent of course.

Good shopping! My $.02 worth - hope it helped.

 

[BlaydeX15]

Wow, big fee for little of nothing. I bought mine in Arkansas, not Missouri but registered and tagged in Missouri. That's almost $900 in nothing but "fees." Quite a racket. I can't imagine what costs $650 for paperwork! Sorry.... There was no fee for financing or credit check on mine, and I just paid it off to avoid any interest.

Yeah. Would have loved to not pay for it. Lol. My pre-tax/fee price was 31.5k, which would have been fine by me!

 

[MurlinatoR]

Wow, big fee for little of nothing. I bought mine in Arkansas, not Missouri but registered and tagged in Missouri. That's almost $900 in nothing but "fees." Quite a racket. I can't imagine what costs $650 for paperwork! Sorry.... There was no fee for financing or credit check on mine, and I just paid it off to avoid any interest.

Unfortunately, acq fees are part of every lease from every company. Most factors are based on the state of residence and not the state of purchase. You can do the same thing on the lease with paying it off.